At Monroeville Chrysler Jeep, we offer the newest Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep vehicles, along with used cars, trucks and SUVs by those and other leading manufacturers.
Our sales team will guide you along the way as you search for your dream car at our Monroeville, PA lot.
We also offer a variety of additional services that include financial assistance, vehicle repair and a well-stocked inventory of OEM auto parts.
In Your Ear
The muffler on most stock exhaust systems lives up to its name quite capably -- hushing engine noises to almost imperceptible levels. The sounds escaping from a broken muffler may upset your neighbors, but a more serious outcome could be permanent. While neighbors may glare and stew, vehicle occupants are the ones subjected to conditions that are known to contribute to hearing loss and tinnitus. Close proximity and reverberations from road surfaces amplify the dangers for the driver and passengers encased above the racket. Extended periods of exposure increase the chances of irreparable hearing losses.
Up Your Nose
Carbon monoxide is only one component of exhaust fumes, but it may be the most toxic in concentration. When fumes exit the exhaust system prematurely, this odorless gas can enter the cabin of the vehicle. People hidden in a car trunk to sneak into a drive-in movie, or bundled under a blanket in a rumble seat, were often sickened and in some cases killed. The onset of carbon monoxide poisoning can seem like a trivial case of the flu. Headaches and dizzy spells can precede profound confusion, but impaired driving is an immediate result that can be just as deadly.
Out of Pocket
As any novice hot-rodder soon discovers, removing all exhaust restrictions is an ineffective method of improving engine performance. Engines need exhaust back pressure for everything from basic air flow to reducing air pollution. Computer sensors reliant on proper pressures can blindly increase fuel consumption to no avail. Solids from unburned fuel can combine with rain and adhere to body surfaces. Not only does the poor fuel economy burn a hole in your pocket, but caustic compounds eat through the vehicle body panels as well.
Losing the Race
While a new muffler might seem expensive, the cost is minimal in comparison to potential losses. Whether you subscribe to some scientific theory or not, it remains a fact that air pollution adversely affects our planet and our persons. The exhaust converter of an automobile with a leaky muffler never gets enough heat or time to convert and reduce the poisons entering our atmosphere. If preservation of the human race is not a convincing reason for responsible motoring, perhaps a trip to the police impound lot would be.
Clean Your Vehicle Inside And OutExterior surfaces are particularly vulnerable to winter's charming qualities, such as snow, ice and road salt. It's ideal if you can use the fair fall days leading up to the frigid months to thoroughly wash your vehicle. To start, undertake a complete do-it-yourself detailing of your car. Be sure to include a car wax that coats the body panels before the first snowfall -- specifically, before temperatures drop below 55F. This preventative measure will shield paint surfaces from snowy bombardments, and it will also make snow and ice easier to brush off.
On the inside, remove any garbage before vacuuming the seats and floor. After vacuuming, additional attention with an upholstery cleaner will have your cockpit looking spick-and-span and more welcoming for passengers. To rid your car of that stale, climate-controlled atmosphere that the colder weather brings, try an air-freshener -- even a man's car shouldn't smell like a gym locker. Finally, it's also a great idea to swap out your carpeted floor mats with a set of water-resistant vinyl or rubber mats.
Test Battery And Electrical System
Cold weather is a vehicle's electrical system enemy -- especially the vehicle's battery. Combine this with the increased power demands of defrosters, windshield wipers and heating systems, and a car battery really has to be ready to meet the brutal winter challenge. A simple battery test means running your vehicle's headlights before starting the engine. If you notice that the headlights get brighter once you start the engine, more elaborate battery tests might be needed.
Metering voltage with a voltmeter or measuring electrolyte levels for an unsealed, low-maintenance battery are two examples of such tests. If your tests show the voltage lower than 12.4V or if electrolyte-specific gravity resides below 1.225, a recharge or replacement of the battery is likely required.
A well-insulated cabin offers much needed shelter from frigid winter winds, so ensuring your heating system is functioning properly should be a top priority. Run your heating system to ensure its operation before the actual time of need -- trust us, you do not want to be trapped in a cold car in the months to come. Also check the window defroster system by testing the defroster strips in the windshield and rear windshield using a voltmeter. Another major electricity consumer is the vehicle's lighting, which will be running longer due to the much shorter days. Make sure your headlights, taillights, back up lights, and signal lights (including your hazards) illuminate with a visual check during a dark day or at night.
Maximize Winter Vision
Darkness and blizzard-like snowfalls, coupled with shorter periods of sunlight, dramatically reduce a motorist's vision during the winter. A working set of windshield wipers and an ample supply of winter washer fluid are the best ways to optimize limited visibility. Ensure that your wipers have a clean wipe across the windshield -- if you replace your wiper arms, also make sure that they don't lift from your windshield at higher speeds (some larger, Teflon wipers tend to lift with higher winds).
Similar to the theme of tires, windshield wiper varieties are predominately featured for all-season use. While a high-quality windshield wiper is the way to go, wiper performance can be affected by snow and ice buildup along the wiper springs. For optimal winter visibility investing in special winter wipers equipped with protective shields that protect the wipers' mechanism is an excellent idea. Summer washer fluid must be replaced heading into the colder months since it is not made for the colder temperatures and may become frozen and useless. When buying winter washer fluid, look for a brand with a deicer agent.
Be Equipped For The Road
While it may be a given, it's still extremely important to mention the basics in winter car equipment: You will need a snowbrush and an ice scrapper. Remember, a soft-bristled snowbrush is less likely to damage your paint and plastic scrappers won't scratch your windshield and windows as easily as metal ones. Other tools suited for unpredictable winter conditions include a collapsible shovel, a well-stocked emergency kit and a set of jumper cables.
For mountain regions, add a set of tire chains to your trunk as it may be the only way you'll be able to drive. As well, in case your vehicle becomes immobilized in deep snow you can either buy of set of traction pads or use some scrap pieces of carpet to help you escape those arctic traps -- but make sure you read the instructions carefully prior to using the traction pads as they often have spiked bottoms and can be quite dangerous.
When taking a long trip (a common practice during the holiday season) include items such as a blanket, a flashlight, candles and a lighter, flares, and an extra bottle of windshield washer fluid in case of unplanned circumstances or roadside stops.
Understandably, this winter gear might represent a burden for trunk space, but your preparation may be a relief for you later on.
Tires are an economical and practical choice for many motorists it took recent tire technology advancements to recapture consumer interest for winter tires. And even then, some drivers swear by all-seasons even though their winter performances are scarcely up to par with that of the winter treads. The reality is that winter tires are the way to go.
If you opt for winter tires, store your summer tires in opaque plastic bags. To reduce moisture from damaging the rubber, press as much air out of the bags as possible or use a vacuum to suck out the air before sealing the bags with tape. For storage, find a place that maintains a cool, but stable temperature, such as a basement or heated garage.
Whichever tire you choose to use this coming winter, make sure you conduct regular visual checks on the tires tread surface, and monitor the tire pressure on a monthly basis as well. Remember, every 10 degree drop equals 1 PSI lost in your tires' pressure and that means loss of traction and control on your part.
Check And Change Fluids
Check the coolant system. To determine whether or not your vehicle is operating with a proper coolant level, it sometimes only requires a small visual check at a marked level indicator on a semitransparent overflow reservoir. For North America, a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze coolant is typically recommended for year-round driving (check your car's owners manual for specifics or go by the indications on the antifreeze). After checking the coolant, proceed to examine coolant hoses for leaks or wear -- visually inspect all the connections and use clean rags or paper towels to ensure there are no leaks. Make sure you also search for leaks around other reservoirs in the engine compartment, such as your brakes and oil.
The change in seasonal temperatures may also dictate a change to a thinner viscosity engine oil to more efficiently lubricate moving parts in colder conditions. Since this is not the standard for all vehicles, check your vehicle's owner manual for fluid requirements.
The glove box can be a useful treasure chest in cars, housing everything from important papers and receipts to tire gauges and extra fuses. It's a safe, easy-to-access place for crucial items, and almost every car has one. Even the best of us are sometimes guilty of littering our glove boxes with unnecessary items like CDs or cosmetics.
Don't let yourself go down that path. Rather, be prepared and consider the following things to keep on hand.
License and registration: Keep all important documents like proof of insurance, automotive registration and a copy of your driver's license in a plastic bag or held together by a paper clip.
ICE: Experts at AAA recommend keeping an ICE — in case of emergency — card with important information about you and your passengers. On that card you should list emergency contacts, physicians, any medications used or allergies for you and your passengers.
Put your owner's manual on a diet: We'd all like to keep our car's owner's manual in the glove box, but have you seen the size of these things lately? If your car came with a combo pack of a manual plus other materials like stereo or navigation instructions, optional warranties and more, put the less vital guides elsewhere. Keep just the main manual — with important info on engine care, wiper blade sizes and more — in the glove box.
Tire pressure gauge: Unless you have a new Nissan Altima with its Easy Fill Tire Alert system, a tire pressure gauge is one of the most essential items to have in your glove box. Thankfully, it's also small.
Flashlight: There are dozens of small — sometimes even flat — LED flashlights on the market that take up only a little space but emit a lot of light. A flashlight will come in handy when trying to change a tire in the dark.
Fuses: Stock your glove box with a few backup fuses, which can be picked up at a hardware store for a few dollars. If your car's taillights or power windows stop working, replacing a blown fuse takes just seconds. Fuses are ideal for the glove box because they're tiny.
Wheel-lock key: Wheel locks help to ensure that someone won't walk off with your car's pricey wheels, but you won't be able to change a flat tire without the wheel-lock key. If your car has wheel locks, keep the key in the glove box next to the tire pressure gauge.
First-aid kit: If your car is short on storage space, find a small pouch or container and make a basic first-aid kit for the glove box. It should contain adhesive bandages, tissues or cotton balls, a pain reliever like aspirin and backup prescription medicine. You could put the ICE card in there, too. Some retailers carry first-aid kits for glove boxes such as the LifeLine, which costs less than $10.
Phone charger: If you have a smartphone you know how quickly the battery can run out of power, especially if you're using Bluetooth. Luckily, most chargers are small. A cellphone is one of the most important items you should have with you in a car in case of an emergency; don't let it run out of juice.
Paper map: Put a printed — yes, printed — fold-out map in your glove box. In this day and age where portable GPS units and cellphones with navigation software dominate, having an up-to-date paper map as a backup is just plain smart.Click the link to read the whole article from Cars.com : http://bit.ly/YhkYeM
AAA has put together a list of the twelve biggest mistakes parents make when using a car seat. Some items on the list may seem like insignificant oversights, but even the smallest error in properly securing these safety devices can compromise their effectiveness in the event of a crash.
Read on to see the mistakes parents are making and how you can prevent them from happening to you.
1. Moving a child out of a booster seat too soon.
Seat belts are designed to fit adults, not children. Putting a child that isn't ready into an adult seat belt can result in an abdominal or neck injury in the event of a sudden stop or crash. AAA recommends keeping your child in a booster seat until they are absolutely ready to fit into adult seat belts, which usually occurs between ages eight and twelve, depending on growth and development. Children should be able to sit with their back against the seat, knees bending at the edge of the seat and feet touching the floor. The lap belt should be positioned low across their hips and upper thighs with the shoulder belt across their chest and collarbone.
2. Not installing the car seat tightly enough.
If a car seat is installed too loosely, it can subject a child to much greater force during a crash. A car seat should not move more than one inch front-to-back or side-to-side when installed correctly.
3. Harness straps too loose.
Having the harnesses too loose on a child is very dangerous, as they will not be properly restrained in the event of a crash. This can result in subjugation to much greater force and even ejection from the seat entirely. Harnesses should lie flat without any twists. Ensure that they are snug enough that you cannot pinch any extra material at the child's shoulder.
4. Retainer clip (or chest clip) is too low.
The retainer clip helps keep the child secure in the car seat. If a retainer clip is too low, a child can come out of the harnesses or the hard, plastic retainer clip can cause internal damage. AAA recommends ensuring that the clip is placed at armpit level.
5. Turning your child forward-facing too soon.
According to AAA, children in the second year of life are 5 times less likely to die or be seriously injured in a crash if they ride in a rear-facing car seat. A child should remain in a rear-facing seat until they reach the upper weight or height limit allowed by the car seat manufacturer. Once this happens, then switch to a rear-facing convertible car seat with higher height and weight limits.
6. Allowing a child under the age of 13 to ride in the front seat.
Children under the age of 13 are almost always too small to ride in the front seat, and they can be seriously injured by air bags in the event of a crash. Be safe and do not allow a child up front until they are a teenager.
7. Forgetting the top tether.
Neglecting to use the top tether on a car seat will subject a child's head and neck to excessive forward movement. When recommended, always use the top tether with either LATCH or seat belt installations.
8. Adding additional toys, padding or mirrors to a child's seat.
Don't add additional stuff to a car seat, as it can interfere with the seat performing the way it was designed to during a crash. Toys and mirrors can turn into dangerous projectiles in the event of an accident, as well. AAA recommends only using products that come with the seat or are recommended by the seat manufacturer. Secure all loose items in a vehicle trunk or storage space.
9. Installing a car seat using LATCH in the center rear seat of a vehicle (when not permitted by the manufacturer).
Most vehicles do not support LATCH in the center rear seat. Using lower anchors intended for the outboard seats could cause the whole system to fail and the car seat to be thrown in a crash. Refer to the vehicle's owner's manual and only use lower anchors in approved seating positions.
10. Transporting unsecured, heavy items (including pets) in the vehicle.
Loose items can turn into nasty projectiles during a crash. Secure items in a trunk or other storage location. Properly restrain pets with approved devices.
11. Installing a car seat using both LATCH and a seat belt.
More is not better in this scenario. Using more than one system to secure a car seat can put unnecessary stress on the seat, affecting its performance during a crash.
12. Having children wear bulky coats/sweaters while buckled into a car seat.
Unapproved padding, including coats and sweaters, placed behind or under the harness can compress in a crash, resulting in slack in the harness system. AAA says that you should always place blankets or jackets over the child after the harness is snug and secure.
5. Stay Alert and Sober
Sure, you have to watch out for drunks and wannabe "Fast and the Furious" extras at night. But you might actually be your own worst enemy. That's because we all operate by a circadian rhythm, which regulates our daily activity levels. Research has shown spikes in the number of car accidents to coincide roughly with the ebbs of the circadian cycle -- early morning, when most people are asleep or just waking up, and early afternoon [source: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration].
So before driving at night, avoid taking medications that make you drowsy. Even what you eat has as influence. Eat foods that are high in protein rather than ones high in carbohydrates, which are more likely to make you sleepy [source: National Sleep Foundation]. Also try to make sure you're adequately rested before you drive at night. Prior sleep deprivation is usually a culprit in drowsy driving accidents.
Some people avoid coffee and other caffeine products as a matter of principle or for health reasons. But research shows that drinking the equivalent of two cups of coffee can stave off a "sleep attack" for up to an hour.
It's also a good idea to have someone else in the car with you, if possible. They can help you to stay awake with conversation or, at the very least, share the driving duties. The numbers tell the story on this one -- drive with a buddy and you're less likely to crash and die [source: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration].
No article on driving safety would be complete without mentioning alcohol. By now, everybody knows how badly alcohol impairs driving ability, so we'll spare you the sermon. Do realize, however, that other people will get boozed up and jump behind the wheel at night -- putting you in potential danger should you be unfortunate enough to cross their drunken path.
4. Let there be (Unobstructed) Light
We already mentioned how there's less light available at night for you to spot possible hazards. So it's critically important that you use technology -- both to see and be seen.
Let's start with your headlights. First, make sure both of them work. If they don't, replace them in pairs; otherwise you'll have one weak, dull headlight and one brand-new bright one, which is distracting to other drivers and can be mildly disorienting to you.
You'll also want to make sure the lens of the headlight housing is clean and clear. Grime and pitting from oxidation reduce the amount of light that can illuminate the road in front of you. Headlight lens buffing kits can help you restore headlight clarity and allow more light to hit the pavement, right where you need it.
Make sure both of your brake lights work, too. They give drivers behind you critical warning and reaction time when you need to make an emergency stop.
Most people know to turn their high beams off in well-lit areas or if another car is approaching. What many drivers don't know, or simply ignore, is that fog lamps should also be turned off for ordinary night driving. The water droplets in fog diffuse the light of your regular headlamps so that they have a difficult time illuminating obstacles and making your car more visible. Fog lamps are a bit more effective at cutting through fog, but their intensity can hurt the eyes of other motorists if it's a clear night.
3. Don't be a deer in the headlights
Now that you know when and when not to use the lights you have at your disposal, what do you do about those drivers who don't know? The "less-enlightened" ones, if you will?
And what about those drivers in vehicles with headlights at or near your eye level -- the ones that make your retinas feel as if they've caught fire? If such a car or SUV is approaching from the opposite direction, you can divert your gaze down and to the side, using the lane marker or painted median strip as a guide. If the person is behind you, use the nighttime reduced-glare setting on your rearview mirror.
2. Use technology for its intended use: Safety
Remember where we said to leave the gadgets alone? Well, we need to qualify that statement -- because sometimes gadgets can be life savers. Just make sure you're at a complete stop (parked) when you use them.
Among the gadgets that can get you out of a late-night predicament:
• A cell phone lets you call for help in the event of a breakdown, accident, or even if you're too tired or tipsy to drive
• A GPS navigation system can prevent you from getting lost in a shady area; many units have a nighttime setting that inverts light and dark colors -- making the unit easier to read at night and also less distracting
• Integrated "telematics" systems such as Toyota's Entune and Ford Sync can provide directions not only for where you are, but to the nearest rest stop, police station, or motel at which to rest your weary head; and of course, there's the granddaddy of major carmaker telematics systems -- GM's OnStar, which can automatically detect if you've been in an accident and call emergency services for you
• On some higher-end cars, infra-red night vision is available; these systems can spot obstacles, people and animals seconds before they enter the range of your vehicle's headlights, providing crucial added reaction time
1. Carry a Roadside Emergency Kit
gadgets alone? Well, we need to qualify that statement -- because sometimes gadgets can be life savers. Just make sure you're at a complete stop (parked) when you use them.
Among the gadgets that can get you out of a late-night predicament:
• A cell phone lets you call for help in the event of a breakdown, accident, or even if you're too tired or tipsy to drive
• A GPS navigation system can prevent you from getting lost in a shady area; many units have a nighttime setting that inverts light and dark colors -- making the unit easier to read at night and also less distracting
• Integrated "telematics" systems such as Toyota's Entune and Ford Sync can provide directions not only for where you are, but to the nearest rest stop, police station, or motel at which to rest your weary head; and of course, there's the granddaddy of major carmaker telematics systems -- GM's OnStar, which can automatically detect if you've been in an accident and call emergency services for you
• On some higher-end cars, infra-red night vision is available; these systems can spot obstacles, people and animals seconds before they enter the range of your vehicle's headlights, providing crucial added reaction time.
Imagine driving along the interstate just as the snow is beginning to fall. If you make good time and don't stop, you should be safe at home in just a couple more hours. Unfortunately, a couple of tractor trailers have jackknifed across the roadway up ahead, causing traffic to back up for miles. The snow intensifies, icing over to turn road surfaces into a skating rink. Despite a frantic response involving emergency crews and theNational Guard, you become one of many people stuck, in freezing temperatures, in their cars, for more than 20 hours. Mayhem ensues.
Does this sound like a treatment for a melodramatic, made-for-TV movie? Or perhaps an incident that crippled motorists in some underdeveloped country? Such a thing could never really happen in the United States, right? Actually, this exact scenario played out in Pennsylvania in February 2007. It offered a pretty stark example of why every driver would be wise to keep a roadside emergency kit stashed in the back of his or her vehicle.
While today's cars and SUVs are more reliable than ever, you can still easily become stranded night or day. You never know when a belt will break, a tire will deflate or an act of nature will delay you from reaching your destination. An emergency kit won't keep you safe through the entire Apocalypse, but it can provide some warmth and sustenance for a few hours or even days, until help can arrive.
For between $25 and $40, you can pop into your local auto supply store or discount warehouse store and purchase a pre-assembled kit. Otherwise, you can piece one together on your own. Here are a few of the necessities you ought to have:
• Jumper cables or battery re-charging device
• Quart of oil
• Bottled water (which can double as engine coolant)
• Emergency roadside flares
• Blanket
• Plastic tarp
• "Multi-tool" handheld miniature toolkit
• Tire sealant
• Granola or other snack bars
• First aid kit with assortment of bandages
• Flashlight and batteries
• Nylon bag to keep everything contained and tidy
And naturally, you'd want to check your kit every six months or so to consume and replace perishables and check batteries.
Common Damages
One of the most common damages blamed on car washes is scratched paint. According to Jacob Scalici, a Philadelphian who writes about sports cars, the brushes used in a car wash are hard on paint and clear coat. Rear windshield wipers and antennae are also frequent victims of car wash machinery. Industry groups like the Southeastern Car Wash Association even post bulletins on their websites about which parts of specific models are especially vulnerable to damages.
Choosing a Car Wash
Choose a "brushless" car wash. Older car washes may still use abrasive brushes, which can easily scratch your car's finish. Brushless car washes use long cloth strips instead. Or you can select a car wash that bills itself as "touchless," where all that touches your car are high-pressure jets of water and detergent. Another thing to watch is the drying phase. If attendants hand wipe cars, make sure their towels are clean and soft. If they use the same cloth for many cars, pieces of dirt will accumulate in the cloth and scratch any cars they wipe. If the towels are dirty, let your car dry naturally.
Who is Responsible?
When a customer accuses a car wash of damaging her car, the two parties must determine who is responsible. The car wash employee may be certain that the scratch was there before the car went through the wash. The driver may be just as adamant that the scratch is new. Usually the manager will be consulted, and both parties will try to determine whether the equipment could have caused the damage. If it looks like the customer is right, the car wash will pay for repairs at a body shop, and sometimes even provide a rental car. If the car wash is convinced it is not in the wrong, the customer can file a claim in small claims court.
Self Defense for Car Washes
Brad Hooper, who owns Rossmoor Car Wash and Detail Center in Los Alamitos, California, recommends that every car wash should have good digital video cameras. He suggests that employees should point out noticeable scratches to the camera as the car approaches the wash. The owners of Venture Car Wash in Ridgeland, Mississippi, budget about a nickel per car to go toward repairing damages. Some months they have no damages at all. Other months they have a few in quick succession.
Doing it Yourself
According to Scalici, some cars weren't made for the automatic car wash. Upscale sports cars, especially those in dark colors, are unforgiving when it comes to any sort of brush. He recommends soft towels, microfiber mitts and gentle soap.
For the last few years, as budget-pressured states and municipalities have pressed law-enforcement to write more speeding and traffic tickets, employed speed camerasand battled in court against drivers who warn other drivers about speed traps, there are voices, including those of some police departments, saying higher speed limits would be safer and contribute to our quality of life.
Take Michigan State Senator Rick Jones, a Republican from Grand Ledge, Mich., and a former police officer, who has proposed that state speed limits be raised to as high as 80 mph, up from the upper limit of 70 mph. The Detroit News recently supportedJones' measure with an editorial.
Jones knows local police forces may fight the proposal until they figure out how to replace lost ticket revenue.
"All good police officers oppose speed traps," Jones says. "Speeds should be posted scientifically and properly for the safest speed and then the officers will catch the big violators. We don't need to get the average Joe getting to work." Jones also said the higher limits would afford police the ability to focus on other enforcement areas such as impaired, distracted or careless driving, and restraint (seat-belt) enforcement.
There is support at the state level.
"With artificially low speed limits we put police in a position of actually ticketing safe drivers," said Lt. Gary Megge of the Michigan State Police Traffic Services. He's pushing for Jones' bill.
Illinois has recently upped its speed limits on rural highways from 65 mph to 70 mph. And there is support in Wisconsin's state house for similarly increasing the speed limit from 65 mph to 70 mph, a measure that has support from some of the state's newspapers.
AAA generally opposes higher speed limits. The organization said in its opposition to Illinois' measure that nearly half of the state's traffic fatalities involve speeding, with that percentage on the rise. But let's look behind the numbers. There were 1,248 fatal car accidents on Illinois highways in 2007 and 918 in 2011. The percentage of accidents involving speeding was 42% in 2007 and 47% in 2011. Not only are the numbers and percentages close, but drawing a straight line between higher speed limits and more traffic fatal accidents is not valid. Unknowns, for example, in those statistics are how many accidents may have been caused by motorists suddenly adjusting speed at the sight of a police speed trap, the number impacted by impaired drivers or influenced by road construction.
Why and what is the theory behind higher speed limits being safer for drivers? The National Motorists Association argues that higher speed limits make roads safer, endorsing research that supports the idea that setting speed limits around the speed that 85 percent of drivers travel.
"We're supportive of the 85th percentile rule," Michigan Dept. of Transportation DOT spokesman Jeff Cransontold The Detroit News. "There's a misconception that speed alone kills. It really depends on road conditions. If it means increasing the speed limit to make some roads safer, then it should be done."
There are a lot of variances in speed limits in the U.S. as anyone driving cross country can attest. The highest speed limits are for the most part 75 mph in western states and 70 mph in eastern states. Northeast states have 65 mph limits. A small portion of the Texas and Utah road networks have higher limits of 80 mph and even 85 mph.
Remember when speed limits kept drivers to a hair-pulling 55 mph? Between 1974 and 1987, the lower highway speed limit was a result of policy that said the lower speed limit would save gas. During World War II, the speed limit was set at 35 mph for the same reason. While it is generally true that most vehicles will use less gas if their speed is set between 55 and 65 in highway driving, proof that the national policy saved energy on the whole is debatable at best. The National Maximum Speed law was repealed in 1995 and speed limits were given back to the states to set.
Will higher speed limits make us less safe? After New York raised the limit on its highway traffic to 65 mph in 1995, the state's total crash rate dropped by 4 percent. In 2000, the Automobile Club of Southern California determined that higher speed limits in that state did not increase the rate of statewide accidents over a period of five years. Additionally, traffic fatalities as a percentage of miles traveled dropped sharply after the repeal of the 55 mph rule.
Speed, however, does have a direct effect on how serious an accident can be. Physics dictates that the force of impact increases with speed. But research in this area can be quickly out-dated as car makers have added technology to new cars-multiple airbags, seat belt minders that chime until the belts are buckled, electronic stability control. These features are all found standard on every new car. Even more technology, such as sophisticated collision-avoidance systems, are being phased into cars, albeit mostly luxury cars for now.
In case you are wondering when speed limits were first set, it was in Colonial times. In 1757, in Boston, the board of selectmen set the speed limit for wagons, carriages, horses, etc. on Sunday was set at "a walking pace." Anyone exceeding this limit would be fined 10 shillings.
Today's vehicles have a lot more horsepower. And it could just be safer to let them run.
UV Protection
Coatings that resist the dulling, chalking effects of sunlight have come a long way. Ultraviolet light still will oxidize a car's finish, but unless you are parking in a barren lot in the desert, the paint on recent models is going to last many years. Of course, you can buy one of those canvas booties that encase a car, but don't look at us when you're fighting the wind to put it on.
Cleaning
The best advice is the simplest. Wash or at least rinse off dirt of any kind on your car ASAP. The longer it's on, the more likely that it will penetrate the paint. Cool your car in the shade on a shallow incline; the angle will help channel water drops to points where they fall off the car and onto the ground.
Rinse before you wash because the mildest of car soaps and freshest of sponges — both of which you should use — won't help if there's sand between the sponge and the paint.
Rather than dish detergent, use car soap, some of which is made to remove stuff like wax. When it comes to tools, you don't have to buy a sponge directly from the Mediterranean, but you definitely shouldn't use old underwear (too hard, no snap and … just don't).
Wash and rinse one section at a time so you don't have water drying on the body. Don't scrub that strong-yet-delicate surface. Use long, light strokes that run along the length of your car. Scratches created with circular wiping leave marks that are more noticeable than straight ones. Rinse your chamois or sponge before dipping it back into the bucket to prevent grit from being reapplied to the car.
Dry by blotting rather than wiping. Ignore memories of your dad or granddad who looked oddly happy to be driving away "to dry the car." They likely were sneaking off to a tavern, a game or to anyplace quieter than home. You'd probably have to drive at unsafe speeds to blow the water off a wet car — all the while accumulating new dirt.
There's a class of cleaning product designed to be used after your car has dried and before you wax. Obviously, this is above-and-beyond detailing. Maybe it's even obsessive. But if you've got the money and ego to buy a jaw-dropping paint job, it makes sense to do everything possible to maintain the sheen.
Wax On, Wax Off
You shouldn't rush the rinse-wash-rinse-rewash process, but you're shooting yourself in the foot if you take shortcuts with the wax. This is the thin, invisible layer of material that not only deepens the beauty of good paint, but also is like diaper cream in that it keeps the bad stuff (including a significant portion of UV rays) from ever touching your baby.
The gold standard is carnauba wax. It's expensive, but you'd be hard-pressed to find anything that brings out paint's richness better. Wipe it on and immediately wipe it off.
You have to be careful, though. A lot of wax-makers say theirs is carnauba, but manufacturers can seemingly mix essence of carnauba in their waxes and claim it's the real thing. You want at least 20 percent carnauba in the can, preferably without any petroleum products mixed in. You'll get better results with natural oils.
Polymer-based waxes are great, too, and worth their price, but they still can't equal the show that carnauba puts on.
Car Washes — Even Evil Has a Place
The less said here the better. As has been pointed out, if you're willing to go to a car wash that uses brushes, you probably aren't motivated to wash your car to begin with.
But let's say you're on your way to pick up actress Natalie Portman for a date when a flock of geese off-load some dead weight onto the hood of your car. The best-case scenario is as follows:
Drive to a no-touch car wash that only sprays water and soap. Cut in line, saying you're late to your daughter's graduation from Brownies. Tip an employee to give the car a rinse before it rolls in. Run to the register and throw your platinum card at the cashier, but keep running to the wipe-down area. The wipe-down area is where everyone else stands around watching his or her car getting dried by hand. If the dryers don't do a good job, the driver stiffs them on the tip. Doofus move. Instead, walk up to the first dryer to touch your car and give him or her the largest bill in your pocket. Say these words: "Use the towels reserved for newborn infants accidentally delivered here."
If the bill you hand over is $100 or greater, tell them about blotting, otherwise go get your credit card back. There's a high likelihood that the cashier's phone number will be on the receipt. That's just a bonus, and has nothing to do with getting the cleanest and least-damaging car wash. Pick up Natalie.
Gather a few tools—a small plastic bin, garbage bags, glass cleaner, car cleaning wipes, air-conditioner treatment, a flat-head screwdriver, paper towels, and a hand vac—and get ready for your car to look fresh off the lot.
Minute 1:
Toss items that shouldn’t be in the car into a small bin. Throw trash into a garbage bag. Spritz the cup holders with glass cleaner and let sit.
Minutes 2 and 3:
Using the wipes, clean the dashboard, center console, inside door pockets, steering wheel, and gearshift. Spray air-conditioner treatment into the air vents below the windshield and let sit.
Minutes 4 and 5:
Clean leather seats with a few wipes. (Seats that are upholstered will get vacuumed later.)
Minutes 6 and 7:
Wrap a wipe around the end of a flat-head screwdriver, and run it along the buttons and switches on the dashboard. Wipe out the cup holders with paper towels.
Minutes 8 through 10:
Spray glass cleaner on paper towels and wipe all the windows, including the windshield, sunroof, and rear window.
Minute 11:
Remove the floor mats and whack them against each other to dislodge any dirt.
Minutes 12 through 14:
On the driveway, vacuum the floor mats with the bare hose of a hand vac for maximum power (do not attach a tool). Vacuum the seat upholstery and foot wells, shifting the front seats fully forward, then back, to hit every spot.
Minute 15:
Replace the mats and return the seats to their original positions. Open all the doors and let fresh air blow through.
5. Show up early In order to get the full enjoyment out of tailgating, you need to make sure you leave yourself enough time before the game. You'll probably need to show up about 3 to 4 hours before the game to set up. That should give you plenty of time to cook the food, play some games and just hang out with your group. Don't forget to factor in some time to break everything down once you're done.
For those die-hard tailgaters, there's always the option of coming back to the parking lot once the game is over to do some additional tailgating. This might save you some frustrating time in post-game traffic and give you the chance to celebrate a great victory -- or forget a horrible defeat.
4. Find a Good Parking SpotFinding the ideal spot for your tailgate party might not be the first thing that everyone thinks about, but it can make your party a little more fun if you can pick a prime location. If you can, look for a parking space right next to a grassy area so you'll have more space to spread out. This way you'll have one less car next to you and you might even score a tree to chill out under if it's a hot day. If you can't find a shady spot, bring along an extra tent or canopy to block out the mid-afternoon sunon those really hot days.
Some areas may charge for prime parking locations -- and in some cases, that charge may be a little too much for your party budget. So if you have to make do with whatever spot you can find, be sure to make friends with the other football fans parked around you. Who knows? You might even decide to plan your next tailgate party with them.
3. Know the RulesThe rule book makes football a lot more fun because everyone has to play hard within the confines of the agreed-upon terms. When you're tailgating, remember that the parking lot or facility where you're partying probably has rules, too. This could be simple things like making sure to clean up after you're done, no unattended grills or as on some college campus parking lots, the rules could entail no alcoholic beverages.
Do a quick search online before you go tailgating or ask some friends if they know of any important rules to follow. Once you understand what you'll be working with, you'll know how to plan for your tailgating party and what you do or don't need to worry about. Finding out ahead of time may keep you from getting asked to leave because you unintentionally broke the rules.
2. Plan AheadThis is an obvious one, so let's take a look at what planning ahead for a tailgating party really entails. Of course, if you're in charge of cooking you'll need to bring the food and the grill and maybe even the drinks. But what about the utensils, plates, cups, garbage bags and so on? Try to think of everything you'll be doing when you're tailgating and make a list of everything you'll need. Once you've parked and started your tailgate party, you most likely won't be able to leave the lot to pick up anything you might have forgotten.
Try to think of things that you'd need at home, and then bring them along. For some locations, this may mean planning ahead for extreme weather situations, like thunderstorms or even typical issues like using the bathroom. In fact, if there are no bathrooms available, it may even be necessary to rent a port-o-potty to make the afternoon a little more comfortable for everyone.
1. Pack it upWhen it comes to tearing down your tailgating site, apply the camping rule that says you should take out everything you bring in. You might be able to find some trash cans nearby, but then again, you might not. It's important to make sure you have everything with you to properly dispose of, or carry away, all of your trash.
If you grill out using a charcoal grill, keep in mind the policies and rules for your tailgating area. Charcoal coals can stay hot for hours and they need to be disposed of properly. Using aluminum pans that you had the food in is a good way to discard the remaining charcoal. You can then use the melted ice in the cooler to pour over the coals if they're still hot.
Whatever you do, don't leave trash, food or bottles laying around when you're done. It's in everyone's best interest to keep the place nice and neat so you'll have a premium spot to tailgate throughout the rest of the season.
Three Types of Coverage
Although insurance policies and prices vary from company to company, there are three basic types of coverage you'll want to consider.
Liability: If an accident is your fault, the insurance company will usually cover the damage you caused, including bodily injury and property damage.
Collision: The insurance company will pay for repairs performed after an accident. Make sure you go to a repair shop approved by your agency. Otherwise, they may not pay for the work.
Comprehensive: Damage from vandalism, theft, floods, fires and other events is covered. Some insurance agencies don't cover certain kinds of mishaps, so make sure you know all the details — and exclusions — of your policy. Some insurers offer protection from uninsured drivers.
Other Important Considerations
Find out your auto lender's preferences
If you owe money on your car (through your loan), your lender may have some rules on the kinds and amounts of coverage you'll need. Most lenders want a comprehensive coverage package to protect the car in the event of an accident. However, if you own your car outright and have the title, you are free to select the insurance you feel most comfortable with, as long as you comply with state insurance requirements.
What's the smart amount of coverage for me?
Figuring out how much time you spend in your car and the number of hazards that your car faces on a regular basis (traffic, parking, etc.) can help you figure out the coverage you need. If your car is frequently exposed to hazardous conditions, you may want to consider adding more coverage. If you keep your car in a garage most of the time, you probably don't need as much coverage as someone who's parking on congested city streets every day.
Your insurance agent will ask you about your driving habits. Based on data from thousands of insured drivers, the agent can figure out the likelihood of you having an accident and offer a plan that is appropriate for you. Some insurance companies will reduce your payment if you drive less frequently, live close to work or if you drive a safer vehicle.
You should also consider where you live, work or go to school. Are you concerned that your car may get stolen or vandalized? Weigh all these things when choosing your insurance plan. You can easily increase your coverage if necessary.
1 . Watch out for cyclists or runners wearing headphones. There is no way to know how loud their music is playing, so it may be possible they cannot hear the cars around them. Music seems to take us out of our environment as well, so runners and cyclists may not even be aware or paying attention to the environment around them.
2. Know the direction bicycles and cyclists should be traveling and be cautious about those who do not follow the rules. A bike is considered a vehicle and should travel in the same direction as regular traffic. Runners should travel in the opposite direction of vehicles.
3. Look carefully before making a right turn -- cyclists and runners may be crossing the street. For them, their straight path intersects with the spot where the turn will be made. The runner or cyclist may or may not stop, depending upon their awareness or whether they see a car in their peripheral vision waiting to make a right turn. Look out the passenger and backseat windows to make sure no one is coming up from behind to cross the turning path.
4. Do not get distracted. It is easy to look away for a moment to change the radio station, answer a phone call or look at another person in the car. Even though it is a small moment, a runner or cyclist could be along the road or in an area where they are prone to be hit. They may be listening to music, engaged in their own workout or concentrating on their own direction and not be able to react quickly to a distracted driver's mistake.
5. Stay out of the bike lane unless a state law allows temporary driving in it for certain reasons. Even then, look carefully before going into the bike lane, watch for cyclists and be ready to get back out quickly if needed. A car is moving faster than a bike, so someone riding a bike may appear very quickly.
6. Pass runners and cyclists with care when they are jogging beside the road. Slow down significantly before approach them, especially on narrow roads where there is little or no shoulder. Veer the car slightly to the left to keep a minimum 4 feet distance away from them while passing, and be sure to check for oncoming cars. Make sure cyclists and runners can be fully seen in the rear-view mirror before moving back to the right and speeding up.
7. Watch for children riding their bikes, walking or running. They may be tougher to see because of their height but can appear just as suddenly as adults. Children's behavior may be more unpredictable, so be ready for anything. Don't expect children to know traffic laws or follow the rules recommended for pedestrians and bikers.
8. Check for cyclists and runners before opening the car door. On roads with on-street parking, cyclists especially may unexpectedly and quickly ride past the car door, causing an accident if it is opened. Look forward and past the rear of the car before getting out. Urge other passengers, especially children, to do the same.
Why Late Merging Ticks Us Off
Merging is only one of a long list of driving situations that stir deep emotions. Yet, when best-selling author Tom Vanderbilt began his 400-page book Traffic: Why We Drive the Way We Do (And What It Says About Us), he zeroed in on merging as a universal measure of a driver's personality. The prologue of his book is titled "Why I Became a Late Merger (and Why You Should, Too)."
Vanderbilt suggests that a driver's merging style reveals his personality. There's an old cliché in driving studies," he says: "'A man drives as he lives.'" New York Times columnist Cynthia Gorney boiled the debate down to two main driving personalities: "lineuppers," who take their turn, and "sidezoomers," who race to the head of the line and dart into an opening at the last second. This is maddening to the well-behaved lineuppers. In fact, a Minnesota Department of Transportation study revealed that 15 percent of drivers actually admitted to straddling lanes to block late mergers in construction zones.
Gorney finds her description of sidezoomers gets a spirited response from everyone she questions. "When I raised [this] with my father, who is 83, he startled me by suggesting a longer label that included more bad words than I believe I have ever heard him use at one time." She even found a University of Washington engineer who had his own name for the two main merging personality types: cheaters and vigilantes.
Leon James, a.k.a. "Dr. Driving," whose Web site has a string of articles under the heading "The Great Merging Debate," says merging areas are especially challenging because there are basically two styles of merging that are often incompatible. When early mergers see the late mergers zip by, "most drivers feel irritated, some angry and roadrageous," he says. Trying to block them is "dangerous, illegal and begging for a confrontation."
James sees a connection between the different merging styles and a driver's personality. "Motorists who are less aggressive and more accommodating tend to be early mergers," James says. "They are more community-spirited drivers." On the other hand, late mergers are "more aggressive and opportunistic." And they don't necessarily think of themselves as an exclusive club, either.
"They feel that everybody can be a late merger, and if they choose not to be, it's their choice," James says.
The Case for Late Merging
When you apply the term "sidezooming" to late merging, it conjures up all kinds of negative images. But there is an argument for late merging: It's a more efficient use of the road.
Highway lanes offer a limited amount of space and, because of the volume of traffic, that space is becoming increasingly restricted. So the question becomes this: How can the maximum number of cars quickly move through a set space as that space narrows? Traffic engineers sometimes equate this situation to grains of rice flowing through a funnel. The analogy breaks down, however, when you realize that the grains are touching and sliding against each other as they move — we obviously don't want that with cars. But the comparison is still relevant.
High accident rates in construction zones triggered the Minnesota merger study, says William Servatius, construction programs coordinator in the Minnesota Department of Transportation's Office of Construction. He adds that when drivers are instructed to merge at construction areas: "Many times crashes occur due to aggressive driving, abrupt lane changes or sudden stops."
Using speed-sensing devices that display different messages depending on the speed of traffic, Minnesota DOT engineers developed what they call a "zipper," which meshes cars quickly. Signs advise drivers of the upcoming lane closure, tell them to use both lanes up to a point and then direct them to take turns merging. When traffic is flowing, drivers merge early to avoid unsafe maneuvers. But when traffic is congested, motorists make full use of both lanes. The data revealed that the change reduced traffic lines by 35 percent and also brought down "lane changing conflicts," says Craig Mittelstadt, Minnesota DOT's work zone safety specialist.
But most highways' merging zones don't display friendly signs that tell drivers it's OK to merge late. And so the conflicts continue. And along with the conflicts comes the inevitable finger-pointing (or finger-giving, in many cases).
Kinder, Gentler Merging
The morning after reading these merging studies, I decided to create a third category of driver for myself. I would be neither a lineupper nor a sidezoomer. Instead, I would be a "sidesignaler," politely cruising along by about a quarter-mile of stopped traffic with my turn signal on, requesting an opening. Sure enough, I reached the zipper and saw a gap between cars. In fact, it was a huge gap. I slid into the opening and held my breath. No blaring horns, flashing lights or angry shouts followed my maneuver. I risked a look in the rearview mirror and saw why. The driver was on a cell phone.
Hair conditioner for shine
Wash your car with a hair conditioner containing lanolin. You'll become a believer when you see the freshly waxed look, and when you find that the surface will repel rain.
Fizz windshields clean with cola
When it rains after a long dry spell, a dirty windshield turns into one big mess. Get rid of streaks and blotches by pouring cola over the glass. (Stretch a towel along the bottom of the windshield to protect hood paint.) The bubbles in the cola will fizz away the grime. Just be sure to wash the sticky cola off thoroughly or your cleaning efforts will end up attracting dust
A one-step window cleaner
Clean your windshield and car windows by rubbing them with baby wipes stored in your glove compartment. What could be easier?
Baking-soda car cleaner
Pour 1/4 cup baking soda into a gallon-sized jug, then add 1/4 cup dishwashing liquid and enough water to fill the jug almost to the top. Screw on the cap, shake well, and store the concentrate for later use. When it comes time to wash the car, shake the jug vigorously and then pour 1 cup of cleaner base into a 2-gallon water pail. Fill the pail with warm water, stir to mix, and your homemade cleaner is ready to use.
Avoid air drying
Also according to Consumer Reports, air drying your car—or driving it around while it's wet—after washing can leave unsightly watermarks on its exterior. Use a chamois or a soft terry cloth, plus a squeegee to soak excess water up—just make sure it doesn't pick up dirt that can scratch the vehicle.
5: Prepare Your Pet for Car Travel
If you're planning to travel by car with your pet, you should prepare in advance. If your pet has never been in the car before, make some short trips first to see how it reacts. Some animals behave just fine, but others suffer from anxiety or even motion sickness. If the latter is the case for your pet, talk to your veterinarian about appropriate medications. While you're at it, make sure your pet is up to date on vaccinations as well.
Most cats feel safer in the car if they travel in a small crate. To prepare your cat for crate time, leave the crate around the house for a few days so the cat gets used to it. Same with your dog. If you plan on harnessing your dog or keeping it in a crate in the car, get it familiarized with that feeling.
Make sure your pet is wearing its identification tags in case it manages to escape you during the trip.
4: Put Together a Travel Kit
Do you pack a toiletry kit for yourself when you travel? Why not pack one for your pet as well?
If you're traveling out of state, bring your pet's health records along. You'll need them in case your pet bites someone or gets bitten. Put your name, destination address and cell phone number on your pet's crate in case of emergency. Also, don' t forget small first-aid items like nail clippers and liquid bandages.
Portable water bowls -- you can even buy one that folds up -- and bottled water are a great idea. You never know what might upset your pet's tummy, and you certainly don't want to find out while you're trapped in a small car together. So, stick with water -- no food.
Don't forget a pooper scooper, waste bags, treats, an extra leash and your pet's favorite pillow or toy for comfort.
3: Keep Your Pet Safely Entertained
Many pets sleep in the car, but just as many of them wind up getting restless. It might seem fun to let your dog hang its head out the window, but this practice is dangerous. Your dog could be hit by flying objects, and the wind and cold air can cause inner-ear damage and lung infections [source: ASPCA]. Excitable canines can also unexpectedly leap out an open window, leading to serious injury or death.
Instead, bring along a favorite chew toy, treats and other objects that will keep your pet entert-ained and busy. Stop the car often to let your pet out (on a leash, of course) to stretch its legs and sniff out its new surroundings.
2: Food, Water and Bathroom Breaks
During any trip, it's important to stop often so your pet can stretch its legs, relieve itself and burn off some excess energy.
Although water is fine, don't feed your pet in a moving vehicle. It's actually best to feed it no less than three to four hours before your trip begins, to minimize motion sickness. If your pet needs to eat during the duration of the trip, feed it at a rest stop an¬d give it some time to digest.
Speaking of rest stops, when you do stop, never let your pet out of the vehicle without a leash. In an unfamiliar place, animals can act unpredictably and tragedy can occur. Don't put your pet at risk -- keep it on the leash.
Always park in the shade. And never leave an animal unattended in a parked vehicle. On a warm day, the temperature in your car can rise to 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) in minutes, even with the window open [source: Humane Society].
1: Restrain Your Pet
Hands (or paws) down, the best way to keep your pet safe during a car trip is to use a restraint system. You wear a seatbelt for your own safety -- give your pet the same respect. Your pet should ride in the backseat so it won't get injured if a front seat airbag is deployed. However, don't let your pet ride in the bed of a pickup truck. In that case, it's safer up front with you.
The best restraint system for your pet depends on its size an¬d breed, as well as the size of your vehicle. There are many options from which to choose. Following are some general tips:
Cats and some small dogs travel best in a carrier. They feel safer and can't run around inside the vehicle. You should use a seat belt to secure the carrier.
If you need to use a crate for your larger pet, make sure it is well secured and cushioned. In the event of an accident, the animal can slam against the sides of the crate.
The safest way to secure your dog in the car is through a restraint system. You can purchase a harness that attaches to your regular seat belts, or straps that attach to the ceiling of the car.
Choose restraints that offer your pet some mobility -- the animal should be able to move and turn in the seat
Alright, so let’s say that your city or town has been taken over by giant monsters running rampant through the streets. You’ve got to get out of there or at least be able to get around safely, but how do you do it? Which method of transportation would you use? What if it were zombies instead of giant monsters? What about just a good old-fashioned apocalypse? Transportation is definitely key in any of these situations.
Today’s fun infographic from Jalopnik.com gives us some answers as to what cars would (theoretically) be best for a variety of disaster-movie type scenarios. If you’re trying to fend off the zombie horde, for instance, you’re obviously going to want some kind of armor/barrier over your windows so those pesky undead can’t get to you and your loved ones. You’d also need to be able to stay mobile in the face of a swarm, so a front-end plow would do nicely and who could say no to some spikes and a remote-controlled chainsaw?
Rust is iron oxide, a molecule consisting of two iron atoms and three oxygen atoms. It's the product of an electrochemical process called corrosion. To create rust, three factors must be present: an anode, a cathode and an electrolyte. An anode is a piece of metal thatwill readily release electrons under the right circumstances. Cathodes are metals that will accept electrons. Electrolytes are liquids that facilitate the movement of electrons.
As electrons flow from the anode to the cathode via the electrolyte, the anode metal corrodes. In the case of metals with iron in them, part of the anode metal becomes rust. As the metal corrodes, it weakens. That's not something you want to have happen to your vehicle.
There are several points on your car that are more susceptible to rust. For example, your car's engine, frame, chassis, exhaust system and trunk compartment can develop rust. Optional equipment, like trailer hitches, can also fall prey to corrosion. Rust can even attack painted surfaces on your car.
Getting rid of rust is challenging. It's easier to take steps to prevent rust than it is to eradicate it. In the case of rust, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Things You'll Need
• Music
• Books on CD
• positive attitude
• coffee
• alert mind
Instructions
1. Before you get in your car brew a good cup of coffee and pour it in a to-go mug. Stopping in traffic is stressful, and this way you won't have to think about stopping to get your caffeine fix.
2. Get online and go to a website that will tell you what routes have traffic jams. Sigalert.com is a good choice and makes it easy to see which freeways are experiencing traffic jams through a five color system. Red means severe traffic jams, orange means moderate traffic jams, yellow is minor traffic, blue means traffic is going around 30 mph, and green you're in the clear!
3. Once you get in your car, roll down the windows to get some fresh air on your face. This will help you stay awake and alert in traffic. If it's cold outside, put the heater on and direct it at your feet and roll down the windows just a little so you still get fresh air.
4. Make sure you have traffic maps or a good set of directions if you are going somewhere for the first time. Concerns of getting lost or getting delayed because you don't know where you are going only add to the stress of driving in traffic.
5. Turn on your local radio and find out relevant traffic information- if any traffic jams have cleared up or changed while you have been driving you can take alternate routes.
6. Put in a CD of upbeat music to keep you positive and energized while driving. If you are sick of all your music, invest in some books on CDs. They provide an incredible distraction from the traffic around you and also provide an opportunity to catch up on the good literature you haven't read because you've been stuck in traffic!
1. Empty everything out of the vehicle and trunk, discard the obvious garbage, and return coffee cups to the kitchen.
2. Sort the remaining items into piles, such as maintenance supplies, kids' stuff, music and videos, manuals and maps.
3. Clean all interior surfaces. Vacuum the floors and seats, wipe down the dash and doors, clean windows and shake out the floor mats.
4. Keep a trash bin on the floor of the back seat, or hang a trash bag from the dashboard.
5. Stash kids' toys, small books and travel games in a behind-theseat organizer (a hanging shoe bag works, too), within reach of backseat passengers. Periodically rotate items in and out to keep kids interested.
6. Stow tapes and CDs in visor organizers. Separate kids' tunes from adult music.
7. Store the following in the glove compartment: owner's manual, maps, vehicle registration information (if required), auto club information, accident report form, notepad, pen, disposable camera, flashlight, list of emergency contact names and numbers, tire gauge, paper napkins and any other frequently needed or essential items.
8. Purchase or make an emergency kit for your vehicle and store it in the trunk or rear of the car. Include booster cables, a tire gauge, flares, reflective tape, a help sign, a screwdriver, pliers, a first aid kit, work gloves, a blanket, an old towel or rags, a jug of water and motor oil. See 466 Assemble Emergency Kits.
9. Put together a survival kit, especially if you live in a cold-weather climate. Include candles, waterproof matches, energy bars or candy bars, large plastic garbage bags and rubber bands. Keep larger items, such as cat litter (for slippery roads), a collapsible shovel, an extra blanket and heavy socks, hats and mittens (enough for several passengers), in a duffel bag or tub in the trunk or rear of the car. See 470 Survive if Your Car Breaks Down.
10. Tackle the car again every season. Restock all your kits; check your maintenance schedule to see when servicing is needed.
